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his article will highlight the First, 4 movement #3, turn up center-line, 10-meter circle at “L”, straight ahead to “X”, then leg yield to “M”.  This movement is repeated on the left rein in movement #6 but for purposes for this article, when I mention outside rein I am referring to movement #3.  For movement #6, just reverse your aids.

 

   This movement actually starts at the end of the diagonal trot lengthening.  As you approach “K”, half-halt and then change your bend and flexion to the left.  This prepares your horse to have the correct bend and flexion through the corner.  Remember to half-halt as you approach the corner, again in the corner and as you come out of the corner.  Luckily, we have an infinite supply of half-halts to ride our horses with so don’t be afraid that your allotment will be depleted.  

   

     All of this is preparation to turn your horse correctly up the centerline.  As you turn up centerline your horse is flexed to the left and your inside leg is on him to keep him from falling on his inside shoulder and drifting in off of centerline.

 

   Trot towards “L” and then use your outside hand (right hand) to bring your horse’s shoulders off centerline to start your 10-meter circle.  Your outside hand should have a solid connection to your horse’s mouth and be close to his withers.  There should not be wide-open space between the horse’s neck and your hand.  I refer to this as never-never land.

 

   Remember, there are no straight lines in a circle.  The horse should travel in a continuous bend and the bend (arc) of his body must match the arc of the circle.  Therefore, he must bend more in his body for a 10-meter circle than for a 20-meter circle.

 

    As you finish the circle the movement requires that you travel straight ahead to “X”.  The leg yield does not start until “X”.  It must not start immediately after completing the circle.  Trot towards “X” with slight left flexion.  As soon as his nose touches “X”, I close my outside (right) hand for a leg yield right and apply my left leg.  My outside leg is just slightly back from the girth to keep his haunches from leading.  In a leg yield the horse’s body is straight with slight flexion in the poll away from the direction he is traveling.

 

   The 10-meter circle right before this leg yield has already prepared your horse to be flexed in the correct direction.  I give a little tap, tap, tap as he lifts his left hind to encourage him to step up underneath himself and cross over his right hind.  If he ignores my leg aid, I may tap, tap with my whip to encourage him to move to the right.  Remember, the whip is an extension of my leg aid.  It is NOT to be used for punishment or as an instrument of torture.  I usually add spurs when I introduce lateral work to a young horse.

 

   To start training leg yields, I first start them at the walk.  Your horse must first learn to move away from your leg and I find it is easier to teach this at the walk.  Once he has grasped this concept, spiraling in and out on a circle is a great way to reinforce the concept.

 

   If your horse gets “stuck” and loses his impulsion, give a harder tap with the inside leg.  Slight, rapid, staccato taps, I feel, has more effect than a steady pressure.  This rapid tap will also help him to maintain his impulsion.  Planting your inside leg and trying to move him over with it will most often only results in dulling your horse’s side and giving you a major “Charlie horse” in your calf muscle.

 

   Remember, his body must remain parallel to the long side.  His shoulders must not reach the rail before his haunches.  To prevent this, I close my outside (right) hand to allow the haunches to “catch up” to the shoulders and give his inside (left) hind leg time to move forward and sideways.

 

   Don’t forget to look where you are going.  His entire body should touch the rail at “M”.  Keep your left flexion as you ride into your corner and begin your half halts to prepare him for the trot lengthening across the next diagonal.